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Among the numerous attractions in Bonito, the waterfalls deserve special attention. Hidden in the woods, they fall into natural pools full of colourful fish. The crystal clear water flows around the stones, opening paths till the next fall.

Banho entre os peixes
Bathing among the fish
Piraputangas
Piraputangas

CACHOEIRAS DO RIO DO PEIXE

I did not visit all of them, but I have my favourite – CACHOEIRAS DO RIO DO PEIXE. It is a typical farm with trails no longer than five kilometres, passing by the woods and some waterfalls. The path is easy, on a wooden structure with a handrail, always with a guide explaining about local vegetation and curiosities. There are stops for bathing, diving in a clear well, swimming with ornamental fish, tyrolean and even a relaxing massage lying on the stones and water coming over.

Tem que pular pra cair no poço
Dry waterfall turned into a cave
Mouth-watering homemade sweets
Mouth-watering homemade sweets

After so many baths, I got really hungry and it was a real pleasure to find a rich buffet with regional food. I got crazy with the homemade sweets. I had to try each and everyone, and I cannot say which was best – many were divine.

Macaco com o filhote
Monkey with infant

Moacir, the farm owner, serves at the bar and performs a show after lunch. He asks visitors to queue and gives each one a banana. Soon the trees move and capuchin monkeys start to come out – slowly, excited, apprehensive. So, Moacir asked us to wait until the alpha male came and accepted a banana from him; only then we could offer the others, otherwise the alpha male would fight the ones that tried to get the fruit without its permission. Many had their babies on their back and were a huge success: the moms got the banana, peeled it and gave it to the infant – a joy for the kids and everybody else.

Três cores de araras
Three colours of macaws
Lying on the stone is a great massage
Lying on the stone is a great massage

And the show went on under a fig, Moacir called the macaws and they came. Four of them: one red, one blue, one blue and yellow and one with shades of orange I had never seen. They land on him, receive food and he places them on the shoulder of each visitor for the classic picture. I loved mine.

I rested in water, walked a lot and took pictures. If you prefer to rest between tours, there is a space with seventy leather hammocks in the shade.

I also visited Parque das Cachoeiras and Boca da Onça, the biggest waterfall in the state. I do not recommend that you go there if it has rained over 50mm the previous days, though. The famous crystal clear water becomes turbid and turns into mud. The ones that have wide riparian zones are less altered, but the landscape gets different and the tour may be frustrating. It is worthwhile for the walk in the woods, but not for the bath.

Suspension bridge between waterfalls
Suspension bridge between waterfalls

[box]TAKE NOTE

Cachoeira Boca da Onça
Boca da Onça waterfall

The waterfalls are far away from Bonito and there is no public transportation. You have four options to get there: bike, van, rent a car in Campo Grande or hire a car with a driver, which we did. Rosa (55 67 96699494), our driver, kept us excellent company in many tours.

Distances from Bonito:
Parque das Cachoeiras – 18 km
Cachoeiras do Rio do Peixe – 36 km
Boca da Onça – 59 km

The tours should be scheduled in advance with the local tourist agencies. If it rains a lot, cancel the tour the day before. It happened with my friends and they got their money back.

Do not forget the repellent!

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Cachoeira seca virou caverna
Cachoeira seca virou caverna

Translated by Lúcia Maciel
Contact: luciamaciel@territorios.com.br

© All rights reserved. Pictures and report 100% originals. Photos by Leandro Gabrieli and Roberta Martins.

Author ro martins

Advertiser, tourism content generator, Territorios’s creator, photographer and travel guide. From the last 12 years, reports her travel experiences focusing on culture and ecotourism on her award-winning blog (Best Content Travel Blog at FITUR Madrid 2017).

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