Among the numerous attractions in Bonito, the waterfalls deserve special attention. Hidden in the woods, they fall into natural pools full of colourful fish. The crystal clear water flows around the stones, opening paths till the next fall.
CACHOEIRAS DO RIO DO PEIXE
I did not visit all of them, but I have my favourite – CACHOEIRAS DO RIO DO PEIXE. It is a typical farm with trails no longer than five kilometres, passing by the woods and some waterfalls. The path is easy, on a wooden structure with a handrail, always with a guide explaining about local vegetation and curiosities. There are stops for bathing, diving in a clear well, swimming with ornamental fish, tyrolean and even a relaxing massage lying on the stones and water coming over.
After so many baths, I got really hungry and it was a real pleasure to find a rich buffet with regional food. I got crazy with the homemade sweets. I had to try each and everyone, and I cannot say which was best – many were divine.
Moacir, the farm owner, serves at the bar and performs a show after lunch. He asks visitors to queue and gives each one a banana. Soon the trees move and capuchin monkeys start to come out – slowly, excited, apprehensive. So, Moacir asked us to wait until the alpha male came and accepted a banana from him; only then we could offer the others, otherwise the alpha male would fight the ones that tried to get the fruit without its permission. Many had their babies on their back and were a huge success: the moms got the banana, peeled it and gave it to the infant – a joy for the kids and everybody else.
And the show went on under a fig, Moacir called the macaws and they came. Four of them: one red, one blue, one blue and yellow and one with shades of orange I had never seen. They land on him, receive food and he places them on the shoulder of each visitor for the classic picture. I loved mine.
I rested in water, walked a lot and took pictures. If you prefer to rest between tours, there is a space with seventy leather hammocks in the shade.
I also visited Parque das Cachoeiras and Boca da Onça, the biggest waterfall in the state. I do not recommend that you go there if it has rained over 50mm the previous days, though. The famous crystal clear water becomes turbid and turns into mud. The ones that have wide riparian zones are less altered, but the landscape gets different and the tour may be frustrating. It is worthwhile for the walk in the woods, but not for the bath.
The waterfalls are far away from Bonito and there is no public transportation. You have four options to get there: bike, van, rent a car in Campo Grande or hire a car with a driver, which we did. Rosa (55 67 96699494), our driver, kept us excellent company in many tours.
Distances from Bonito:
Parque das Cachoeiras – 18 km
Cachoeiras do Rio do Peixe – 36 km
Boca da Onça – 59 km
The tours should be scheduled in advance with the local tourist agencies. If it rains a lot, cancel the tour the day before. It happened with my friends and they got their money back.
Do not forget the repellent!
Translated by Lúcia Maciel
© All rights reserved. Pictures and report 100% originals. Photos by Leandro Gabrieli and Roberta Martins.