Capixaba pie, fish pirão*, capixaba moqueca** and crab are some of the best experiences in Vitória; an island full of mangroves and famous for the best clay pot in Brazil could only be an excellent destination to eat seafood.
There are several options, especially in Canto Beach, Camburi and Caieiras Island. In Canto Beach, there is Triângulo das Bermudas, full of bars and busy restaurants from midday till dawn, the capital’s nightlife. We had lunch at RESTAURANTE PIRÃO, known for the best moqueca in town. The waiters, who seemed to have a close relationship with the customers, offered personalized bibs; walls covered with pictures of celebrities (such as Lula, the former Brazilian president – and artists, always with Hercílio, the owner); crowded tables and the clay pots withpirão, moqueca and rice. That is the atmosphere, but no famous person that day; we were the only ones who looked like tourists. We ordered an exquisite sea bass and shrimp moqueca, but the pirão was better. The price was quite good; I thought it would be more expensive considering the reputation and prizes on the entrance.
In Camburi we went straight to ILHA DO CARANGUEJO, we were told it is the best place to have seafood. Right at the entrance an enormous crab on top of a modern beetle full of stickers grabbed our attention. The place is huge, and the service is fast. We ordered several appetizers, served in a few minutes – a feast. It was bad, because it got cold and we did not know what to eat first. I suggest that you order one thing, and then another. We tried the crab in the can, the fun crab, the divine breaded shrimp and the awarded pie cupcake, created for the Pub Week and which comes with pepper jam. I liked it, but when I tried the jam with the shrimp… I loved it and suggested that they put it to the menu.
I had eaten crab before, but never like this – the dead animal on my plate with a hammer on the side. Inside its head there is a kind of mush that does not look nice, but the waiter assured me it was fat. I tried it but did not like it; if you remove this beige part and add a lemon twist, it tastes nice. The most tasteful part is the legs, which I ate with pleasure – watch the video.
I did not eat at Caieiras Island, but everybody says they have the best Capixaba pie. I stopped by and it seemed nice to stay at the beach and close to the mangroves.
* A thick sauce made with manioc flour
** Brazilian seafood stew based on fish, onions, garlic and cilantro
570 Alcino Pereira Netto St., Jardim Camburi
Translated by Lúcia Maciel
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